FreeTrack IR Build Tutorial/Guide
This is a quick write up about making your own track ir headtracking device with parts that are available for low cost on the internet or at most electronics retailers using http://www.free-track.net/english/ FreeTrack Software
Supply List:
1 Webcam - http://www.free-track.net/english/h...85fe1fe0b928984a8455d7721ee7363#Compatibility See Approved List
*Note - Don't bother removing lens filter from webcam
3 IR LEDs
*Note - Don't Bother flatening roundtipped LED's (but DO buy the flat ones if you have to order them)
1 Battery pack (or alternate power supply (can be USB powered for example or even tapped off your headsets power if you're up for serious modding)
1 Mount (or hat) - rigid but thin material of your choice (I used a trimmed piece of a plastic coat hanger)
*Note - If you make a clip you must also mount the clip to your head/headset
1 Length 30cm Black (-) electrical wire
1 Length 30cm Red (+) electrical wire
Optional (possibly required):
On/Off switch
resistor (to Determine how to wire your setup reference http://www.free-track.net/english/hardware/calcled/ **LED Wizard** on the FreeTrack website
*Note - You can find all the required info on your LED and Battery Packaging
(Example: I used:
1 rechargable "AA" battery which outputs 1.2v (a non-rechargable would have been 1.5)
3 IR LED's that have a forward voltage of 1.2v and forward current of 100mA
SO, I entered "1.2" in the first box, left the second box defaulted to "batteries" then entered "1.2" and "100" in the last 2 boxes.
The wizard output NOTHING lol, because there is no resistor required and no matter how you wire it, it will not overdraw or overheat either way I did parallel (3 red (+)/3 black (-) wires)
Tools Required:
Wire cutters/strippers
Electrical Tape
Soldering Iron/Solder (optional can use crimp connectors alternatively)
Estimated Cost:
0-60 US Dollars depending on existing parts,tools, equipment on hand
My Costs:
USD 7.50 - 3 IR LED's
USD 1.09 - 1 AA Battery Holder
============
USD 8.59 - Total Cost lulz
Links:
http://www.free-track.net/english/" FreeTrack FAQ/General Info
http://forum.free-track.net" FreeTrack Forums
http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=413" Hardware FAQ
http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=455" Software FAQ
http://www.free-track.net/english/hardware/calcled/" LED Wizard
http://www.free-track.net/english/multimedia/profils.php" FreeTrack Game Profiles
Download the http://www.free-track.net/fichiers/profils/arma.zip "Profile for Armed Assault (by Babasior)" Profile
(follow the instructions in the readme.
Follow the instructions in http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=2416 Thread on FreeTrack Forums for the PS3 Eye "Fix"
Mini FAQ:
Q: Do I need a resistor?
A: If the wizard says you do then YES you do, you will either burn out your LED's or maybe start a fire. Or maybe explode a battery
Q: What is Series vs Parallel?
A: Series in one after another: Power->Light1->Light2
Parallel all on their own: Power=>Light1&2
Q: Does it matter if I do one or the other?
A: YES!!! DO NOT stray from the diagram the wizard outputs unless you know what you're doing in which case STOP READING THIS!
Basic Step By Step:
After having gotten your diagram from the wizard get the parts you need lay them out.
1. Trim excess lead length from LED's
2. Strip ends of wires for soldering
3. Solder/Connect LED's to wires
4. If Required attach resistor in line between Red (+) lead from battery pack and the Red (+) lead to the LED's (one wire if series 3 if parallel)
5. Mount LED's to Clip or Hat follow the measurement instructions in the http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=413" Hardware FAQ
6. Mount Clip to Headset
7. Right Click on FreeTrack and "run as administrator" (Please follow instructions in http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=2416 **THIS Thread** if using PS3 Eye cam)
8. Please note I had to adjust my "threshold" to almost all the way to the right in order to block out the surrounding light and only have hte PS3 Eye monitor the LEDs
I also had to adjust the exposure settings to get the cam/software to "see" the LEDs
This is a quick write up about making your own track ir headtracking device with parts that are available for low cost on the internet or at most electronics retailers using http://www.free-track.net/english/ FreeTrack Software
Supply List:
1 Webcam - http://www.free-track.net/english/h...85fe1fe0b928984a8455d7721ee7363#Compatibility See Approved List
*Note - Don't bother removing lens filter from webcam
3 IR LEDs
*Note - Don't Bother flatening roundtipped LED's (but DO buy the flat ones if you have to order them)
1 Battery pack (or alternate power supply (can be USB powered for example or even tapped off your headsets power if you're up for serious modding)
1 Mount (or hat) - rigid but thin material of your choice (I used a trimmed piece of a plastic coat hanger)
*Note - If you make a clip you must also mount the clip to your head/headset
1 Length 30cm Black (-) electrical wire
1 Length 30cm Red (+) electrical wire
Optional (possibly required):
On/Off switch
resistor (to Determine how to wire your setup reference http://www.free-track.net/english/hardware/calcled/ **LED Wizard** on the FreeTrack website
*Note - You can find all the required info on your LED and Battery Packaging
(Example: I used:
1 rechargable "AA" battery which outputs 1.2v (a non-rechargable would have been 1.5)
3 IR LED's that have a forward voltage of 1.2v and forward current of 100mA
SO, I entered "1.2" in the first box, left the second box defaulted to "batteries" then entered "1.2" and "100" in the last 2 boxes.
The wizard output NOTHING lol, because there is no resistor required and no matter how you wire it, it will not overdraw or overheat either way I did parallel (3 red (+)/3 black (-) wires)
Tools Required:
Wire cutters/strippers
Electrical Tape
Soldering Iron/Solder (optional can use crimp connectors alternatively)
Estimated Cost:
0-60 US Dollars depending on existing parts,tools, equipment on hand
My Costs:
USD 7.50 - 3 IR LED's
USD 1.09 - 1 AA Battery Holder
============
USD 8.59 - Total Cost lulz
Links:
http://www.free-track.net/english/" FreeTrack FAQ/General Info
http://forum.free-track.net" FreeTrack Forums
http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=413" Hardware FAQ
http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=455" Software FAQ
http://www.free-track.net/english/hardware/calcled/" LED Wizard
http://www.free-track.net/english/multimedia/profils.php" FreeTrack Game Profiles
Download the http://www.free-track.net/fichiers/profils/arma.zip "Profile for Armed Assault (by Babasior)" Profile
(follow the instructions in the readme.
Follow the instructions in http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=2416 Thread on FreeTrack Forums for the PS3 Eye "Fix"
Mini FAQ:
Q: Do I need a resistor?
A: If the wizard says you do then YES you do, you will either burn out your LED's or maybe start a fire. Or maybe explode a battery
Q: What is Series vs Parallel?
A: Series in one after another: Power->Light1->Light2
Parallel all on their own: Power=>Light1&2
Q: Does it matter if I do one or the other?
A: YES!!! DO NOT stray from the diagram the wizard outputs unless you know what you're doing in which case STOP READING THIS!
Basic Step By Step:
After having gotten your diagram from the wizard get the parts you need lay them out.
1. Trim excess lead length from LED's
2. Strip ends of wires for soldering
3. Solder/Connect LED's to wires
4. If Required attach resistor in line between Red (+) lead from battery pack and the Red (+) lead to the LED's (one wire if series 3 if parallel)
5. Mount LED's to Clip or Hat follow the measurement instructions in the http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=413" Hardware FAQ
6. Mount Clip to Headset
7. Right Click on FreeTrack and "run as administrator" (Please follow instructions in http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=2416 **THIS Thread** if using PS3 Eye cam)
8. Please note I had to adjust my "threshold" to almost all the way to the right in order to block out the surrounding light and only have hte PS3 Eye monitor the LEDs
I also had to adjust the exposure settings to get the cam/software to "see" the LEDs